5.27.2013

::My Honest Opinions on Chalk Paint and Wax::


PSSSST...I'm no longer blogging here!
You can now find me at

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EDITED 11/24/14:  I wrote this post well over a year ago and still get weekly emails asking me questions about my process.  I want to say here that ALL I know about painting with chalk paint and waxing is here in this post.  If the info is not here, I've got nuthin' :)  Just want to save you time in writing a big long email about your vintage dining set....ALSO, I am no longer painting furniture as a business.  I've moved on to other creative endeavors, so I'm not in the loop about the newest products available.  Some of the info following might be out of date as well, but I'll leave this post up in case you'd like to research further.  I'm no longer answering emails about furniture re-doing as my time is focused on other things, I hope you understand :)


I'm really just a small-ish step away from a complete noob when it comes to chalk paint and waxing.


But I've used it on enough pieces to begin forming some opinions on what I like, what I don't, and why it matters for me and my new biz.



I started off trying out a few DIY recipes (which I will tell you about in another post), then dove right in with Annie Sloan's brand.  I've since purchased some CeCe Caldwell and a sample of the American Paint Co.  There's many more brands out there.  Seems like I stumble upon a new brand every day in blogland (FAT paint, Maison Blanche, Van Gough, Shabby Paints, Webster's, more???).... and besides different color options, I think they're probably all similar in quality and performance, though a few of them claim to be all natural and others have a bit of latex in them. Price-wise they're all more expensive than most latex paints.


(mixing up one of my DIY chalk paint recipes)

Honestly, I don't see enough of a difference in end product and work involved between the boutique brands and homemade chalk paint.

Ta Da! How's that for the bottomline?

And you're only 1/4th thru the post.  You're welcome.


(testing out different DIY recipes)

There *are* differences, but maybe not enough for some to justify the huge price difference, waiting to have it shipped, paying shipping, etc.

What differences? you ask.......my wish is your command.
You're welcome again.
~You have to mix up your own, which I don't mind doing.  It makes me feel artistic :)
~Some of the DIY ingredients are hard to come by (calcium carbonate can be difficult to find locally)
~Other DIY ingredients can be pricey (my favorite recipe uses SW primer and a spackle product)
~Plaster of Paris and unsanded grout, while easy to find, are the most difficult to mix in and requires a mask when you sand it...toxic stuff people.
~Usually takes more coats to cover, and needs a quick sanding before waxing, although I usually sand everything quickly regardless of what paint I use as I like a smooth surface with few brush marks.
~While those sample pots are cheap (and cute), the quality is not that of the regular quarts/gallons of latex (I understand some key ingredients are missing), so depending on the paint you love (I happen to love Ben Moore and Sherwin Williams), the savings isn't quite as significant.  Still cheaper than the boutique brands, though.
~It isn't all natural like most chalk based paints...for instance CeCe Caldwell's are 100% natural.
~You have to color match if you want the same shades offered by the boutique brands.  Again, not a huge issue for me, I love the paint swatch area....and frankly, where I live, folks don't care whether I've used a 'name-brand' chalk paint color or not. Or whether it's even chalk paint.
They like white and off-white.  BORING, but that's my reality.


Chalk paint is touted as easier to use due to it's 'no prep/sand/prime' claim.  Basically open the can and get to it.  I paid attention.  That sounded like music to this 'can't wait to paint' gal's ears......

BUT.  What they don't tell you is the work involved in waxing on the back end.  And most of the time, you're gonna wanna seal that chalky goodness with at least one coat of wax or some other top coat.

The rest of this post is devoted to waxing and waning (and whining) about wax. Get yer cheesecloth.


So far I've used Annie Sloan's, SCJohnson's, Maison Blanche and Miss Mustard Seed's waxes.
Here's info on each based on my usage:

~Annie Sloan Clear Soft Wax has a steep learning curve.  I'm sure I'm making it too hard, but I've ruined 2 pieces using it, therefore doubling my time re-doing/fixing the finish. More detail below.
~SCJohnson's is stinky, but very low cost and available locally in the furniture cleaners section of big box stores. It isn't as soft as the others, but that's not been a big issue.
~Maison Blanche's wax is the cheapest boutique brand (before shipping) and is low odor, but only buffs to a matte finish.
~Miss Mustard Seed's is the easiest and most predictable....but also the most pricey per ounce of the specialty waxes, and it's easy to use too much as it's like soft butter.  Over her milk paint, though, it's da bomb. Sleek, smooth and a bit of shine.

Mostly you're supposed to 'use a thin coat' (haven't quite figured out what that means as each wax has a different feel, and all the different tutorials I've watched seem to put it on differently), rub it in, (wipe off excess if you're using Annie Sloan's), then depending on the brand and the look you're after, you buff it when it's dry (usually within 10-15 minutes), or don't buff if you're after a completely matte finish.  Annie Sloan seems to have the most finicky instructions, and expects me to wait at least 24 hours before buffing.  Some tutorials for her wax recommend doing a second coat (and wait another 24 hours to buff).
The biggest problem I have with waxing (and this is mostly with Annie Sloan's soft wax) is I don't feel like I know when a piece is done.  I never really know if I've put on enough or too much.  Mostly I get uneven finishes....smooth with a bit of shine in one area, streaky or cloudy in others. I haven't been able to consistently produce a consistently beautiful finish.  When it 'works', I'm not sure how I achieved the look because I feel like I'm doing the same thing on the pieces that turn out crappy.

Buffing also sucks. It's hard work, and by the time I've contorted myself into several unnatural positions to paint a piece, I'm over working so hard to get it to shine.  And yes, Annie's is the hardest to buff. At least it has been for me.  Miss Mustard Seed's is the easiest....shines right up.

Lemme tell ya, there is nothing more frustrating than getting a paint finish just the way you want, only to ruin it with the top coat.  Amen.


 (see the streaks?)

There are some brands that brag about how easy their waxes are to use, tools that make buffing a cinch, and non-toxic formulas.  Some say wax before distressing (um, tried that, and no.  My sandpaper was so glopped up with wax that it was useless after a couple passes....then you have to wax AGAIN over the areas you distressed. blah) I've watched/read more tutorials on waxing than is healthy.  It's weird, folks.  The stuff is just weird.  And everyone seems to apply it differently.

If you do want to use Annie Sloan's I recommend Cindy's tutorial that I posted here.  I still didn't get great, predictable results with AS wax, but did much better with the others using her techniques.

I hate to be so negative about Annie Sloan's wax because I love her paint, and I have a terrific new friend right down the street who is a stockist....but I need to be honest.  For those who have been using wax for ages, before it was all trendy and stuff, I'm sure it works fine.  For lay folks or those used to more traditional finishes, there is an expensive learning curve.  Be prepared.

Previously, I would often use polycrylic...which also gave me fits at times, but it was mostly predictable. I've also used waterbased Spar Varthane (found at my Menards) with good success and non-yellowing performance over white or light shades.


 The pieces I've had the best luck with are good old latex with no topcoat (btw, Miss Mustard Seed never uses a topcoat with latex) or spraypaint.  More prep at the get-go, but no waxing, glory be.  I think I kinda prefer the prep up front idea as opposed to the work of waxing/buffing afterward with iffy results.

So will I continue to use chalk paint?  Prolly.  I like it for it's no-prep/prime, easy-to-distress and handpainted finish on certain pieces. I also LOVE that some brands are completely environmentally safe. But I'll usually be mixing my own with my old pal latex or even primer tinted with craft acrylic as much as the boutiques due mainly to cost.  I haven't found customers (yet) who will pay more for specialty painted pieces.


Waxing may or may not stay in my arsenal....I will use up what I have since I forked out lots of bills for them AND the 2 waxing brushes I purchased....but I may just use polycrylic instead over chalk paint, or wipe-on poly for dark pieces.  Dark wax will definitely take a back seat to glazing, which I'm used to using and already have in my supplies. (See a couple great glazing tutes HERE and HERE)


BTW, Jen Rizzo wrote a great piece about why she still prefers polycrylic over wax.  Her biggest reasoning is that a piece finished with wax must be stripped before repainting, as well as the need to rewax more often than when using poly.  For pieces I use in my own home that get repainted every few years, that was enough for me to decide not to wax those pieces....although in the comments on that post, someone mentioned chalk paint can go over a waxed piece as well as poly over the wax. *sigh*  Everyone has an opinion/experience.


One of the gifts of the internet is the explosion of info at our fingertips.  One of it's downsides is wading thru the opinions and experiences of others.  In my research exploring chalk paint and waxing, I've found others with the same issues I've had regarding the wax (especially the Annie Sloan soft wax, but also with the process of waxing in general). You just have to dig below the raving reviews to find them.

Sausha of Sweet Pickin's hasn't jumped on the chalk paint bandwagon, and it hasn't hurt her business any. (link goes to a post about milk paint and she mentions not caring for chalk paint)

Mandie of Altar'd had a negative experience with Annie Sloan wax, but does carry CeCe Caldwell's chalk paints products and raves about the ease of CeCe's waxes.



Bottom line for me: cost and time.  For pieces I'll use in my own home, I might go for the specialty boutique chalk paint.  For pieces I sell, it's gonna be hard to justify the cost and time for the most part using boutique brands and waxes.  Most customers in my neck of the woods aren't gonna know or care....they just want a white dresser with a hard, smooth finish.

~~~~~~~EDITED  8/6/13~~~~~~~~~  

Since writing this post, I've had the opportunity to try some other boutique brands of chalky paint and wax. See my review on CeCe Caldwell's products HERE, van Gogh products HERE, Shabby Paints HERE, and Country Chic Paints HERE.

I am getting better at waxing, but I am concerned about the fumes once my painting goes inside when the weather turns.  For now, my favorite waxes to use are either CeCe's, American Paint Company, or van Gogh because they are all natural and pretty easy to use.  My new favorite all-around boutique topcoat is VAX from Shabby Paints which will replace all polyacrylics for durability.  See reviews linked above for more info.

~~~~~~~~~~EDITED 2/5/14~~~~~~~

I still enjoy using boutique chalk style paints over my homemade when I need to get a piece done quickly.  I rarely wax.  Instead I use VAX (by Shabby Paints), or Spar Urethane in satin by Varethane (at Menards in my parts).  Spar Urethane won't turn whites yellow, and I use it like a wipe on poly.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Regarding chalky paint, I am leaning toward CeCe's and American Paint Co....again, all natural and gorgeous colors.  There are a few Annie Sloan colors I can't live without, and while I can color match them at Sherwin Williams and make my own, I'm really favoring the ease of boutique brands over DIY at this point.  I'm painting everyday, and the all natural, no prep, quick dry, sanding with a wet rag are all pretty dang awesome in turning pieces quickly.

For those who paint their own pieces, DIY is still the best IMO, though, and I will be using up my own DIY stash before investing in more of the boutique brands.
Best DIY recipe (from Diane at In My Own Style): 2 TBLS Calcium Carbonate in 1 TBLS water...add to 1 cup of latex (my choice is Sherwin Williams Color to Go sample quarts at $6!)
Second Best DIY recipe (from Cyndy at The Creativity Exchange): 1 part primer, 1 part spackle, 1 part paint. Be aware that if you use this recipe and are color matching boutique brands, the primer will lighten the color quite a bit.  Maybe go a shade darker...



So there ya have it.  Talk to me.  What's been your experience with chalk paint and/or wax?  Had good luck with a DIY recipe or two or twelve? Or do you still prefer latex?  Has waxing given you fits too?  Or are you a pro and use a brand you'd love to rave about?  Let's hear it!

(I push the 'publish' button with a bit of fear and trembling as I know I'm not voicing the popular opinion...)

Sharing with Beth at Tutorials & Tips and Yvonne's Tutorials, Tips and Tidbits





160 comments:

karin chudy said...

ah..no fear on this my dear. :) I used to make my own chalk paint to and use to use Johnsons paste wax..as with anything like you said.."learning curve" Luckily I have a great gal that sells CeCe Caldwells paint and she outright TELLS you HOW to use it..For instance dipping your brush in water before your paint so that it gives a nice smooth finish and you actually use LESS paint...and the wax IS divine...but like you I HATED BUFFING...it was a workout! But then they came out with that amazing brush that just goes in your cordless drill. You can buff a piece in a matter of minutes...
Once all the planets aligned, I jumped on the band wagon..I am happy now and I can do a piece a quarter of the time of waiting for latex and spray paint to dry (which I STILL use) :) (I won't be one of those snobs that ONLY uses one certain thing)..We all have to do what works!
Good for you for telling readers how you really feel. Otherwise you risk them not trusting your opinion!
Great Open and Honest opinion!
Hugs
Karin
www.artisbeauty.net

Nancy said...

My favorite part of the post was "aint nobody got time for that!" Shelling out extra bucks for specialty paints and wax seemed like a waste to me and your post confirmed it. Thanks for the info. But, to each her own I say. ;)

Danylle McLain said...

GREAT post! I feel the same about the spendy/trendy chalk paint. I have never had a "one coat" application using chalk paint, I have had to use as much as 4 coats to get the coverage I want. I prefer plain old Minwax paste finish wax or a wipe on poly for my finishes.
As paint blogger, I have tried them all. The best finish is usually the DIY chalk paint or just regular old SW paint.
Thanks for sharing!

Suzan said...

I have used ASCP, mixed my own concoction with p of P and used old fashioned latex. My first experience with chalk paint had me freaking out with the first coat. Crappy coverage! Second coat made a difference but I still needed 3 coats overall and there were still a couple of places that needed more paint before I could wax. I like the waxing process. I use stinky SC Johnson paste wax (because I already had it) and invested in the ASCP dark wax. I have noticed a big difference in ASCP paint coverage application based on coverage. Old White needs several coats to look good, Provence looks great with two coats (even on a piece of dark mahogany) and the coverage I got with Versailles was horrific. I wasn't happy after 4 coats but just quit and started slapping on wax! I love the coverage and the color choices I get with my p of P mixture with latex (and I have never had any trouble mixing it.) I get ugly brush marks with regular latex and end up having to sand more than I like. Glazing terrifies me but I do like a wipe on polyurethane. What I would REALLY like is a nice wipe on polycrylic! When push comes to shove, I really like the protection of a poly finish. My favorite thing about using chalk (or chalk like paint) is that I can start and finish a project in a day. I lose interest in anything that takes too long to complete!

Julie @ followyourheartwoodworking said...

I really do not like the whole waxing and buffing process. I prefer regular paint, no coating over top. Like really, who paints their walls and then puts a clear coat on it?

rebecca @ older and wisor said...

This post is gold!!

I suppose I'm lucky (??) to be too poor to afford any of that stuff. I've always used plain ol' latex. But. I don't have a *business*, so if a piece doesn't turn out how I imagined it isn't a big dealio. My only complaint with latex is that is stays a bit "tacky" for awhile, no matter how thin of a coat I use or how long I let it dry in between coats. Not a big deal unless it's bedroom nightstands I painted 7 years ago that have lamps on them that stick anytime I try to move them to dust. But since that's only every 6 months or so...ha!

I once heard that if you use oil based paint, it has no tact once it's dry, and it cures harder. The pain of cleanup and the fumes have kept me far enough away that I don't know if it' true or not.

Maureen said...

Well it is said that you don't have to do any prep work with AS but in my world, most pieces require some type of prep work - gluing, clamping, wood filler, etc. so I would just as soon get it all done at once. Unless a piece has a bubbled finish or something, any old paint will go on fine. My experience with AS is that it has to be sanded a bunch AFTER painting and that is even more of a dusty mess than sanding before. Maybe I'm set in my ways but so far I see no advantages.

When it comes to wax, although it is stinky, Johnson's paste wax never fails me. Usually by the time I get to the end of a piece I can go back to the beginning and buff it a bit and then done! Many people have mentioned the nice finish on my pieces. My tool of choice? An old sock. Just saying.

I am still playing with milk paint so the jury is out on that.

Just my 2 cents.

Dorothy Sue and Millie B's too said...

Thanks for a great article Cindy. I love the look and ease of use with chalk paint --- but dread the waxing and buffing also...

Autum said...

Nothing but love here for your honesty. I have used Annie Sloan paint and have made my own using calcium carbonate (from Amazon). I was just as pleased with the homemade stuff as well. I agree that waxing is a pain, in fact I think I agree with everything you had to say. Thanks for your honesty. It is a refreshing change in what seems to be an ocean of "sponsored" posts. So many blogs have turned into the internet version of infomercials. I love that you are keeping it real.
xo Autum

TheVintageDames said...

Hi Cindy, at the end of you article you said

"Mandie of Altar'd had a negative experience with Annie Sloan wax, but does carry CeCe Caldwell's chalk paints products and raves about the ease of CeCe's waxes. (Though an almost-local retailer told me her wax is hard to come by and The American Paint Co. who used to supply the base for her waxes is no longer making it? Anyone know what the deal is with that?)"

I would like to address your question and clarify some information. First and foremost CeCe Caldwell's Clear Wax is still being made and will be in sufficient supply. There has been an increased demand that was not foreseen and sales exceed production plans! (personally I love CeCe's clear wax as do many other's) This information comes directly from CeCe Caldwell's Marketing Manager! Secondly, The American Paint Co. is a new company, there-for they did not supply CeCe Caldwell's with any product or supply's. CeCe Caldwell's Paints & Finishes have not changed and are continuing to be manufactured in AZ. & our supply chain has nothing to do with APC.

I have always wanted to repaint furniture, but dreaded the stripping and sanding... I like to get right to the creating part! So for me, self priming already mixed paint has transformed my life! As Central PA's retailer for CeCe Caldwell's Paints, I get to share that fun with others. I still get goose bumps during a workshop when a student says "Wow, I can't believe I can do this!" That is how I felt the first time I painted with chalk paint & I love sharing this "fun" with anyone. So yes, for some, it is better to mix there own, or just use latex, but for others, who have no experience with re-finishing furniture, they find this new "Chalk & Clay Paint Craze" so easy and fun and like Toilet Paper, with all the choices of paints our there, there is something for everyone!

Thank you Cindy for you great blog!
I really enjoyed it.
Happy Painting!
Kathy Cook
Authorized Retailer for CeCe Caldwell's Paints in Central PA
www.thevintagedames.com

van Gogh Chalk Paint Collection said...

Hi Cindy,
What an awesome post! You have really done your homework and I see you have been very methodical about your testing and unbiased in your opinion. you have let the results determine your preferences. Bravo and well done! It is so nice when someone puts in all the time and effort and expense and then is kind enough to share what they learned. I am thrilled that you mentioned our product in your blog, but I would love it if you would allow me to provide you with some product to test it yourself against the other products you tried. I think that van Gogh Chalk Paint is levels the best in the business and is the smoothest and finest finish. Our Beeswax has no nasty solvents like so many others and our support is phenomenal. So, if you ever want to add one more product to your testing, please contact me and I'll connect you with our nearest Paintologist. Thanks so much for mentioning us! Warm regards, Kathy van Gogh - www.VanGoghChalkPaintCollection

Ashley C. said...

THanks so much for this - I read every single word. I recently finally just bit the bullet on buying some ASCP and Wax. SO satisfied with the ease at which I could paint on the piece with no prep, but ugh, felt like I had arthritis waxing everything. And not sure if you've found this as well, but using the lighter (white) colors of ASCP, I can't seem to get the streaks out (like on a dresser top or table top). So finally, I just sanded a table top down the other day and used regular old spray paint. Felt cheap, but I agree with MMS that it just gives a great finish! I'm going to share this post with my readers on FB because I think it's super helpful!

Cozy Little House said...

You're far, far ahead of me. I haven't tried any of the new fancy paints. I'm just not much of a painter I'm afraid. Wish I was!
Brenda

omega57 said...

Red carft paint with poly to protect on a well used kitchen table works great and is inexpensive! Truat me i know. Linda

Magali@TheLittleWhiteHouse said...

That was very intersting. Annie Sloan's is the only chalk paint I can find where I live. I've tried it both with amazing results and epic fails... One of the best thing for me who's allergic to so much things is that it doesn't destroy my skin... A very good point!

Kim Nath said...

I enjoyed reading about your experiences. I haven't tried the as wax but have had good results with Fiddes and Sons. I also just received some Maison blanc wax. I am so happy to see that it is supposed to be matte as I kept thinking I was doing something wrong and not buffing it properly LOL! Thanks for the great insight!

coastal femme said...

Cindy,

Fantastic post and so honest! I too have used AS and Ce Ce Caldwell's paint and haven't been too happy with the waxing process. I too have a hard time knowing if I've covered the piece adequately.
Regarding chalk paint, the first piece I painted with AS antique white was a dark pine Pottery Barn side table that looked good for awhile, but then the knots in the wood began to come through. I ended up sanding the table and putting a coat of Zinzer on it before repainting. It isn't always true that you need no prep with chalk paint...I found out the hard way.

Suzanne@Meridian Road said...

Thank you! I've only tried home made chalk paint and didn't really love it enough to try the boutique brands. I love your honesty! I think you just saved me some $$$.

I like Johnson's wax. It works. :)

Debra @ Homespun said...

I painted alot of furniture in my younger days. I also stripped painted furniture...
I also painted and then antiqued UNPAINTED furniture, like my grandparents used to do.

haven't done any of that for ages but I did pick up an antique china cabinet that I am going to store books in upstairs. I bought regular old primer and paint for it :)

Rustique Gal said...

Hi Cindy,
I have yet to try the new stuff aka chalk paint, wax, etc. I still love a good double coat of eggshell. With a little rag rubbing you get a bit of a sheen and I like the look.
Sherry

Jena {Involving Color and Home} said...

Cindy, great post and I've shared this on my Facebook page! I STILL haven't tried chalk paint. I know I know I should just turn in my paint brushes now. :)

Lisa @ Fern Creek Cottage said...

I use the Annie Sloan wax. I don't love it, but I like the look it gives better than shiny poly. My regret is buying the very expensive waxing brush that supposedly was a must have. I find using men's socks works best! The brush is really difficult to clean too.

The Quintessential Magpie said...

Wow, wow, and WOW. Great advice.

Have you ever used Brie Wax? I have an old chippy of furniture that I'm thinkibg of coatingv in that. a Friend of mine used to swear by it. I hesitate since I'm a rank amateur.

XO,

Sheila

NanaDiana said...

Great post, Cindy. I have tried the AS with mixed results. The white does not give the coverage I want without 3 or 4 coats...and the waxing is a pain in the behind...and often streaky. I like the old Johnson's wax quite well-although it is a little harder to work with. I have not tried making my own yet- but may do that soon. Thanks for ALL the info. And-because I have been gone for a while-congrats on your business!!!!!! xo Diana

Doreen@househoneys said...

I have had very limited experience with ASCP, but I have to say I totally agree with you about the wax. I find the instructions confusing at times and even contradictory, so I just go with my gut and hope for the best.

Good Time Charlie said...

What a great post! I love to see a fair and balanced representation of all the Chalk Paints available. just one note, I am VERY partial to CeCe Caldwell's paints. They are 100% natural, they use Chalk and two kinds of clay, not acrylic. The cans are even recyclable. The wax is 100% natural as well, and yes, they are behind on production right now because they have sold FAR more than they ever dreamed. People are nutso for it. I LOVE this paint because I can paint inside with it, NO VOC's, not chemicals, nothing to harm myself or my family. I don't have to worry if my kids get their fingers in it, or my dog walks through it. It cleans up easily, and there is nothing in it to harm anyone. Just my two cents. Thanks again, you did a great job.

Washed Up Prom Queen said...

Hi Cindy,

Loved your post! My partner, Shannon, and I have been writing a blog as the Chalk Paint Divas for a little over a year now. Just like you, we've had a chance to try a lot of the boutique paints and waxes on the market, so it was reaffirming to see that you shared our opinion on so many issues.

In fact, it was problems with price, toxicity, coverage and wax application that led us to create Shabby Paints. For people who haven't heard about us yet, our quarts of chalk-paint retail for $29.99... but we also sell 4 oz. 8 oz. and 16 oz. sizes. You don't have to commit to a large quantity all at once and you won't break the bank using our products. We're 100% safe... meaning VOC-Free, hypoallergenic and non-toxic... and we're made right here in the USA. Our whites always cover in one to two coats... for real... and our other colors in usually just one.

But the best part is our VAX. It's a brand new product that combines the style of wax with the durability of varnish and it goes on in minutes. If you'd be interested, please contact me for some samples. It would be our pleasure to send them to you. It's our goal to make chalk-paint affordable, safe, practical, easy and most of all, accessible to everyone... not just an elite few.

Thanks so much for mentioning us your post! It was great to be included. Happy painting!

Ally Grisham
Shabby Paints Chalk & Shimmer
VP of Sales & Retailer Liaison
alisongrisham@gmail.com

Tammy @ A Walk in the Countryside said...

Great post! I agree with you about justifying the cost of chalk paint on items for sale! It's the same in my neck of the woods, people before white or off white and don't really want to pay the extra money that involves the expensive chalk paint! Even though, I have my own chalk paint on a few things, I prefer latex paint when preparing a piece to sell! Thanks for sharing!

Cindy @ Dwellings-The Heart of Your Home said...

GREAT post, thanks for your honesty! Waxing ain't for sissies! I had to laugh as I've contorted myself in some strange positions too. Guess we can look at it as a great arm and upper body workout!

Blessings,
Cindy

Karina Russell said...

I'm a wax fiend! I've waxed every piece of furniture in the house and have finished unfinished pieces with tinted wax. I love the patina it gives wood - like putting hand lotion on chapped hands. I haven't applied it over chalk paint, but plan to do that soon. The brand I use is Briwax. It has a strong turpentine smell, but is endorsed by HRH and used at the Smithsonian and Buckingham Palace. I figure if it is good enough for the Queen's antiques, it will be good for mine. I've had no problems with streaky finishes and it buffs up nicely with minimal work. I put a very thin coat on with a folded paper towel or old t-shirt. Buff with soft cotton fabric (old towel or t-shirt). The dry time is about 15 min. Very doable with great results. I have an antique dining table that has been in my family 5 generations. A bottle of nail polish remover was spilled on the top, but the wax on top protected it and there was no harm done. Likewise, it beads up glass rings etc. I love wax!

Christy James said...

I started with ASCP paint and just switched to DIY paint when my ASCP ran out...don't have a stockist nearby! I made it with the calcium carbonate and I love it! It's super smooth and I see no difference. As for the wax, I still use AS clear wax, but I don't wait for it to dry! I rub it on in manageable sections, then go right back and sart buffing! I get a nice smooth surface with a beautiful luster. I give the tops of tables two coats. Thanks for doing all thus legwork and sharing your thoughts...I know this will be very helpful to many:)
XO,
Christy

designgirl said...

Holy COW! I think you should be a writer! You're so easy to read and relate to!
I, too, have been painting and reselling furniture (ala shabby style) for years) and have used my fair share of the available paints on the market. I currently am having an affair (sorry, Honey) with ASCP. I've used it for the longest. I'm a bit schizoid so I tend to switch around a bit with 'new' paints or mixing my paints from scratch. I, too, have learned that my clients prefer plain old WHITE or OLD WHITE. Boring, so I tend to paint the insides of drawers or chests a fun color. Still, not as much fun as my wild and crazy (sometimes) spirit would like!
Wax? Hate the stuff. My only salvation is considering it a workout...sheesh! I've honestly found that Bri Wax is my choice. Don't recall if you've tried that one or not, but thought you may enjoy it.
Thanks for a super read! You're adorable!
JP

Inspire Me Heather said...

Thanks for all your information! I'm going to try chalk painting (I know, I'm the LAST blogger to chalk paint...) and have taken your advice here! Oh, I've also got this linked to my DIY chalk paint post too today!

Mimi06 said...

Wow! Thank you for the info-packed post on any & all issues & steps involving chalk paint. I do believe you covered it all! Also, thanks for your honesty on AS Chalk Paint vs. DIY chalk paint. I DIY my own chalk paint & it's easy & cheap! I do have a question. You said you prefer glazing over waxing, but have you ever tried tinting your wax with stain? I love Howard's Wax (it's soft & doesn't smell), but have used Johnson's & Minwax (which are harder-I soften the wax by warming it in a tin can on a candle warmer). Every paint store person I've ever talked to looks at me like I'm nuts when I ask them if they've ever heard of tinting wax by adding a drop of stain to tint it. What do you think? Have you ever heard of or tried to tint wax? Thanks for your time & thanks again for the post!

Char L said...

Great post! Love the, "ain't nobody got time for that". Haha! So much great information, you and I think a lot alike! I felt as if I was reading my own post!! So glad you stopped by my blog...I am your newest follower/subscriber! ;)

Char @ His and Her Restoration

susiturk53 said...

Hi y'all! Just did my first chalk paint project yesterday, my grandmother's dresser and vanity- circa 1935. The chalkpaint- homemade-did fine but I was not a bit happy with the paste wax finish. Then, I found this wonderful article that gave me options. Happy to say that I finished both pieces with Minwax wipe on poly which turned out beautifully! Thanks so much for the wonderful advice. I am inspired now to get out there and get busy on the antique Eastlake baby bed that I found for my new granddaughter that will be here in October!
Thanks for all the great ideas and advice!
Susi Miller

june olsen said...

Hi there....I have just discovered the joy's of chalk paint....for my first project I used a branded one, but I have just finished painting my second piece in chalk paint, and this time I made my own....I was actually more pleased with my homemade stuff.... I am in the uk, so we haven't got the same choice of finishing products...but after reading your post I will look into getting hold of some wipe on poly....thank you so much for your frank and honest post...will it be ok if I link back from my blog http://nostalgiecat.blogspot.co.uk
I am doing some posts about learning to use new paints ,and this would fit right in....
June

june olsen said...

Hi there....I have just discovered the joy's of chalk paint....for my first project I used a branded one, but I have just finished painting my second piece in chalk paint, and this time I made my own....I was actually more pleased with my homemade stuff.... I am in the uk, so we haven't got the same choice of finishing products...but after reading your post I will look into getting hold of some wipe on poly....thank you so much for your frank and honest post...will it be ok if I link back from my blog http://nostalgiecat.blogspot.co.ukI am doing some posts about learning to use new paints ,and this would fit right in....

Adrienne Dyer said...

I just painted my first piece of furniture in AS chalk paint and absolutely love the look and soft sheen. Some people love the patina of chalk painted and waxed furniture, others like the perfect gloss of latex paints that flow out well and don't show streaks/brush strokes. I painted two coats onto my cabinet in an hour. The stuff dries quickly and covers well, unless it's too runny. I used a creamy pale yellow over really dark wood and it covered well. I think the thing to remember with AS's chalk paints is that you're not after perfection--just slap 'er on and get 'er done! I'm a complete perfectionist, so I find this liberating. You don't worry about brush strokes, streaks, and the like--it's all part of the charm. The "imperfect perfection" Annie so loves. BUT, the waxing is a bit of a pain. I love the look of mine now that it's waxed, but it took longer than I'd hoped, mostly because I kept getting lint in it no matter what I did. If it hadn't been for the blasted lint, the waxing stage would have been easy! And I'd far rather wax than sand and prime, cause I love to dive right in with the colour. The fatal flaw most people run up against is using too much was. Just make sure you only put a little wax on your brush/cloth, and rub in a circular motion, then wipe the excess right off immediately. The key is to work in small areas at a time, and do it quickly. And don't worry about perfection! The paint is durable so it's not going to come off if you miss a spot with the wax, and the slightly uneven sheen is part of the charm of the look. I distressed my piece a little. I tried putting a bit of wax on first, then sanding and rewaxing as the directions in Annie's book, and just sanding without the wax. Yes, the wax gummed up my sandpaper quickly, but it sure made sanding easy! The paint just came right off. Sanding without the wax was much harder.
Thanks for your honesty and for all the ideas for alternatives. AS paints are pricey, and I'd love to be able to make my own, so long as they're as healthy to make and use as AS's. Glad I found your blog!

Adrienne Dyer said...

I should add that while the AS paints don't bother me, toxicity-wise, the wax is extremely smelly and gives me a massive headache after a while--can't be good! I'd like to try the Shabby Paints and CeCe Caldwell alternatives. Thoughts, anyone?

SoSarahSews said...

Thanks so much for your blog post. I was just wondering, then, what I should do. I'm getting ready to start painting with a diy chalk paint and thought I had to use the wax. Do I not? Do you prefer the wipe on poly best? That does sound a lot easier. Or would painting a coat of poly on be better? Thanks again so much for your post!

Elizabeth Bugera said...

Ahhhh.... how much time have I spent reading blogs and websites talking about paint and finishes?? Too much. And yet, I am one of the people that do this for a living and have people asking me for advice. It just is a point of proof that there is a need for something foolproof and what a killing you could make in the marketplace.

So- here are some of my thoughts. I started using ASCP about a year ago, and also purchased at the time, clear wax, dark wax and one of their big waxing brushes. I was horrified at the expense but had the money at the time from a windfall and had already handed my debit card over before I heard the total. I should mention at this point that I've also tried CeCeCaldwell paint and wax, brie wax, and scjohnson wax as well as every type of paint on the market!

As far as ASCP goes, I love the colors and overall, love the paint. I generally use 2 colors in my work and with ASCP you can sand and blend to achieve a finish that looks like it's worn through to a bottom color. My favorite is to use AS provence blue and grey - getting a piece that looks like driftwood. It also has good leveling properties and feels like silk after you sand it. I definitely agree with the people that talk about using water on your brush. Some of the cans I get, the paint is too thick. I've even had to add water to the whole can just to get it to be workable. Hey- that's a good problem when you are paying almost $40 a quart. On the other hand, I recently picked up a can of Antibes green and was very disappointed at how watery it was!! Poor quality control. I also disagree that this idea you can get coverage in one or maybe 2 coats. In talking with other pros, we've come to a consensus that you should treat this stuff like gold. Get a good latex paint (my preference is an enamel paint) in the same color and use that first. Just use ASCP for your final coat. Someone even told me, they don't even use the chalk paint on the sides- just the tops and fronts. And so guess what- that cuts way down on waxing.

Waxing is a royal pain. Love the look and the sheen when it works but totally agree the AS wax is unpredictable and on some pieces it goes on very unevenly. I only had a sample pot of CeCe wax and liked the texture but worried it caused me to use more of it (inadvertantly) and didn't get the same sheen. I have to say, I've really liked the result that I get on the Briwax. I have to special order it through Aco hardware but that's not a big deal. However, there are fumes associated with it and having asthma that worries me. I have even read about people permanently damaging their lungs using the stuff. So, really you should use a heavy duty mask with this. The other concern I have about briwax is that I've heard it turns grey more quickly and needs to be re-applied every year or so. Any wax that has to be re-applied (which technically is all of them I believe) is a concern because my buyers turn and run if I try to tell them this up front. They don't want to deal with it.

I just finished a heavily carved queen sized HB/FB and rail set (even the rails had trim) in Olde White and Old Ochre. It was wonderful, but then it sat there for 3 weeks because I didn't want to wax that darn thing. I finally had a buyer and had to do something so I took wipe on poly and poured it into a container and applied a coat with a brush. It went on a little too shiny looking which made me nervous, but once dried it looked just fine. The buyer was very pleased. Just one caveat- take your time and keep an eye on it after applying to assure you don't have any drips or runs. That's always a problem with any liquid top coat.

Well, I could go on and on and on.... but I've written more than enough for anyone to have to bear reading!

Denise Casey said...

Wonderful post! I love that you were frank and honest. I mostly "chalk up" my paint and follow with Minwax Polycrylic. Even the whites. So far I've been very happy. I have quit using the wax on furniture. It's not trusty enough for tabletops and furniture tops. Many disagree, but hey, that's my opinion. :-D I'll use up the wax I have left on frames and things that don't get "used" much. I also sell furniture and agree totally about what most customers want. They could care less if designer paint was used. They just want a piece that is pretty and holds up. Me, too. That should be the bottom line for us all.

Marsha said...

Wow, I have a piece in the garage ready for paint and now I'm afraid to purchase anything! I'm SO confused! I thought I wanted to try Annie Sloan's but now I'm not so sure. That whole waxing thing is scary and the price is ridiculous. Guess I'll keep researching and figure it out eventually.

"Frustrated in Arizona"

Jackie said...

so what happens if you just don't wax after painting with the chalk paints?

Autumn said...

Hi everyone,
I'm actually looking for advice. I've never used chalk paint, have looked at several tutorials, and feel like I have a pretty good handle on it. However!!! My first project is going to be a dining room table. Im not looking for a really distressed look, and I want it to be durable. Just the wax thing on top totally freaks me out. I'm willing to put the super buffing effort into it, but not if it's gonna be a wreck shortly thereafter. Should I chalk paint and then polyurethane over everything? It's gonna be white, so will the polyurethane cause it to yellow? Is the wax actually durable for a dining table top? What do you recommend???? Please give me your guidance. Thanks! :)

Leslie said...

Have you ever tried BREWAX? I've been usuing it for at least 12 yeas or longer. It comes in light, med., dark and clear. I've never used a brush to apply it, yet I've never heard of that until I recently learn about Annie Sloan paints and waxes. I've always applied with a rag, wipe on wip off!! I've had great results. I've just recently started experiencing with lime wax and I love it's white paste look as well.

Leslie said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
laurie cohen said...

I just tried the chalk paint yesterday. I used Annie Sloan old white on a chest of drawers and then made my own chalk paint for the drawer fronts. I wanted to compare the two as the costs were so drastically different. The Annie Sloan paint was thicker and did not seem to go on as evenly. It did dry so quickly that it was easy to do the 4 coats needed to cover a sanded down dresser. (didn't know I was going to use chalk paint when I started the process so stripped and sanded the piece). The homemade version went on much easier and was so much cheaper. It also allows me to use any color imaginable for very little money. I used a recipe given to me by my neighbor that morning. 1 part water, 1 part plaster of paris, 2 parts latex paint. I went to the store and got the Behr samples that were just $3 a piece plus 2 "mess-up" ones that were marked down to 50 cents each.

It did seem that I need to start with a darker color as the paint color I choose for the drawers (grey blue) turned out lighter after being mixed with water and paster of paris). Makes sense!

Now comes the hard part. I bought wax at a woodworking store based on the manager's opinion that it creates the best overall finish. I was working on a dining room, stained table, at the time. After researching it, I returned the wax, unused, as I was concerned with customers being unhappy with the upkeep of having to re-wax their table every year. Also another neighbor told me it was going to be very hard to buff it out.

I spoke to some people yesterday about my current project and was told that since it was "light use" it would not have to be re-waxed. This neighbor also said how easy it was and the buffing part was not a work out at all. So, many different opinions. Anyways, my plan was to go and track down wax today.

However, after reading this blog and many of the comments, I am backing out of trying the wax again.
I have a sprayer for water based polyurethane and also have some oil based Min-Wax wipe on poly.

Can I use the oil based over the chalk paint. If I use the wipe on poly how many coats do I need? I want to be sure I give the piece a good protective finish as it is for resale. If it was for myself I could try things out, see how they last, and fix it later. Not the case when it will be resold so I need to be sure I do it right the first time!

laurie cohen said...

If you use the recipe I posted above, be sure to let it sit for a while and thicken up. I didn't think about the paster of paris needed to set and added more to get the right consistency. Then about 10 minutes later my paint was really thick! Still worked great!

Frances Aspenlind said...

I find you learn more with each piece you paint. I have painted with Old White and found the wax to leave it streaky. I bit the bullet and used a water base, poly, semi gloss in a tube, spreading it with a sponge brush. Wow, amazing results and no elbow grease. This really has helped with time and pain in my shoulder. I give it two coats and its wonderful! Also instead of using 2 coats of AS to cover or even 3, I used a white primer first and then just one coat of old white. It did the trick and saved on this expensive paint.

Banana&Marty said...

Have you ever used tinted wax to get an antiqued look? Do you think Howard's Feed n Wax is enough of a wax for chalk paint? I find it super easy to use when cleaning furniture, but I'm not sure if it's really appropriate as a top coat on chalk paint.

Meg Knopp said...

Hey, you're a nice blogger. Lol. Seriously, I have read so many catty blogs on chalk painting, it's simply ridiculous. Thanks for all of the great tips, and thanks for sharing them in a kind manner.

Christine Lockamy said...

I used chalk paint for the first time last week, and I covered my chalk painted side tables in polycrylic because they are going to be getting heavy use. I am doing an entrance table in the same paris grey annie sloan chalk paint, and decided it might be time to try wax. I am using minwax finishing paste, and I am a little nervous to try it, but excited as well. We'll see how it goes!

Ggomez said...

Great post!
I too have my head spinning when I read everyone's opinions! Yikes if I followed some advice I would be broke!
But I have to CeCe wax smells yummy and is far easier then others(sadly I have tried many at a cost)
But I need to get the Val's poly you suggest as I love white and they say poly yellows white! Think not!
Loved your post and love your blog!

SmartyPants said...

If you love….Annie Sloan (ASCP) You’ll love….Sherwin Williams (SW) or Behr in these collors:

ASCP Old White SW Antique White 6119 or Behr Polished Pearl UL160-10
ASCP Old Ochre SW Kilim Beige 6106 or Behr Pecan Sandie 700C-3
ASCP Paloma SW Imagine 6009 or Veiled Violet SW6268
ASCPCountry Grey SW Relaxed Khaki 6149 or Behr Baja UL160-17
ASCP Paris Grey SW Essential Gray 6002 or Behr Sparrow 780F
ASCP Cream SW Ivoire 6127 or Behr Hummus UL-180-17
ASCP Versailles SW Wheat Grass 6408 or Behr Outback 390F-4
ASCP Arles SW Viva Gold 6367 or Behr Arizona 290D-4
ASCP Louis Blue SW Respite 6514 or Behr Sonata 530E-3
ASCP Duck Egg Blue SW Halcyon Green 6213 or Behr Gray Morning 490F-4
ASCP Emporer’s Silk SW Positive Red 6871 or Behr Indiscreet UL110-6
ASCP Henrietta Behr 690F-4 Midsummer Dream
ASCP Scandinavian Pink SW Henna Shade 6326 or Behr Terra Cotta Urn UL 120-17
ASCP Provence SW Drizzle 6479 or Behr Gulf Winds 500F-5
ASCP Antibes Green SW Jolly Green 6931 or Behr Caterpillar 430B-6
ASCP Primer Red Behr Burnished Mahogany 160F-7
ASCP Emile SW Soulmate 6270
ASCP Chateau Grey SW Connected Gray 6165 or Behr Wilderness 390F-7
ASCP Greek Blue {I did not find a match for this shade}
ASCP Napoleonic Blue SW Indigo 6531 or Behr English Channel UL 230-2
ASCP Graphite SW Tricorn Black 6258 or Behr Stealth Jet 780F-7
ASCPOlive SW Cocoon 6173 or Behr Crocodile 380F-7
ASCP Old Violet SW Soulful Blue 6543 or Behr Magic Spell 590F-5
ASCP Aubusson Blue SW Temple Star 6229 or Behr Cathedral 520F-6
ASCP Pure White Behr Powdered Snow WD-700
ASCP French Linen Behr Ashwood 720D-4 or SW Intellictual Gray 7045
ASCP Coco Behr Ethiopia UL 160-20 or SW Virtual Taupe 7039
ASCP Barcelona Orange Behr Carrot Stick 204B-7
Sherwin Williams offers all of their colors in a sample size that is 31 oz for under $7 each. A 32 oz quart of Annie Sloan Chalk Paint costs $36-38 each. For the same cost as one Annie Sloan quart, you can have 5-6 of the colors from Sherwin Williams.


Behr quart $19, ASCP Quart $38.95, SW Tester Quart $5
Annie Sloan’s Dark wax is almost the same shade as Ralph Lauren Tobacco Glaze, and Annie Sloan’s Clear Soft Wax is similar to Fiddes Wax or Minwax Paste Finishing Wax.

JetCityMama said...

I used ASCP on a large dining table & 6 chairs. I have a 2 year old & a 3 year old, so I used 3 coats of wax on the table top. I love the shine after I buffed it, but am concerned it won't hold up to their rough & tumble ways (they literally will pubs a fork into the table). Some say you can add poly over wax others say not so much. The project is still in the garage. I'm eager to move it in, but need to know what to do for a durable finish that will hold up to my kids & their friends (when we host parties & play dates). Would seriously love some help here!!!

HHB said...

Re waxes: I picked up some Trewax, which I chose because it was as cheap as Minwax and the guy at the hardware store said it wasn't very smelly for a wax that contains solvents. So easy to use--it goes on smoothly and buffs easily. Two coats of clear gave a lovely finish to two small pieces. I'm contemplating doing my kitchen cabinets, so I did a trial coat on one door. It buffed up nicely with a piece of old t-shirt(I will probably use a shoe-polish brush if I repaint).

While I'm enthusiastic about clear Trewax, I don't recommend the mahogany. It's very red, and came out appallingly orange when I used it to highlight some carving on an off-white painted box. I ended up toning the piece with a not very successful homemade dark wax, basically a soup of stain and clear wax. (Because the solvent content was way too high, it softened the paint--I ended up with a really attractive finish, but I couldn't control the effect on a large expanse.)

I paid $10 for each big can at my boutique neighborhood hardware store, but Home Depot's website has the clear in a 2-pack for about$16. They'll ship it to the store for pickup for free.

Carma said...

Do the DYI Chalk Paints carry the same, no sanding no priming, song and dance as ASCP?

hep2it said...

What a great, thorough post. You can just tell when someone has put a lot of thought and experience into an article. I've gleaned a lot from what you've said, and I'm going to link it so others can see it as well. Thanks!

lk74 said...

Thanks so much for the info! In about to tackle a kitchen table and chairs and don't have much experience painting furniture (I painted some chairs 12 years ago). I was leaning towards using chalk paint as it seems to be this "miracle" product but after reading this, I'm a little nervous! Would you recommend chalk paint/wax or regular paint/poly for a complete newbie? Thanks!

David Bearon said...

Have you ever tried Peel Stop by Zinsser? It's a product designed to seal chalky surfaces. I'd love to know how you feel this product compares to some of your other suggestions.

Lisa H. (Sewing or Something) said...

Im about to use a wash of maison blanche on my kitchen table top.. what poly do you recommend to go over it? I heard not to use wax because grease stains happen in the kitchen and don't come off.. plus poly is prob more durable.

fabulousfinishes said...

I've used the ASCP, and prefer the chalk clay mineral bases of CeCe Caldwell and American Paint - we use, teach and retail with both of them. I LOVE their clear waxes - and equally love that both companies offer a more durable topcoat alternative to wax - CeCe's Satin Finish and APCs Topcoat finish. Both arebrush on-and-your-done water based topcoats, and a light buffing, once its dry, with a brown paper bag will leave you with a nice feeling, harder finish than wax. It's just nice to have options instead of a paint line that offers only a wax, and worse, claiming it is a great finish for any and every purpose - sorry but wax is NOT my choice for kitchen and bath cabinets and high use pieces like table tops. I have always been a fan of the wipe-on polys for ease of use, and my customers love it over our Caromal Colours brand of paints (those arent chalk/clay based but are very much a no sand/strip/prime kindof paint), but I dont like them over the raw absorbent chalk/clay paints - I feel like they just soak in and disappear. What I like to do when I need a real hard finish (we painted the entry tiles at our store) like for a table top, is I'll first brush on a coat of either Satin Finish or Topcoat Finish. I feel like it soaks in quick and even, and doesnt take a whole lot. Then when that dries, I'll switch to my wipe-on poly and wipe on several layers of that. (2 coats of wipe on = 1 coat of full strength poly)

Jamie said...

so I am a total first timer . . .never refinished anything. You said to mix with latex paint, but WHAT kind, glossy, satin, matte, etc. I should probably just buy the more expensive stuff, but like to do things as cheap as possible.

LoDo said...

My mind is now spinning lol! Just bought ASCP in Graphite and Old White. Love the texture and coverage. I thought I could just buy basic yellow, red, and blue and mix the colors myself from there - any thoughts on that? I'm not the best chemist. I, too, used Minwax Finishing Paste and made a mess. I thought starting out with a small piece - picture frame - would be a good beginner project and it was as far as getting used to the paint goes - but the wax no way. I used a cotton cloth and the wax was absorbed. I used a brush and the wax application was inconsistent. I saw the purple scratchy pad...that may help substantially. I was thinking about just a cream or liquid wax. Any thoughts on that? Also, what about machine buffers? I just see what DH uses and that is too big. Sorry I am rambling - so many questions!

Becki said...

Thank you...my thoughts exactly

Unamused said...

Thank you!! I painted 8 chairs and a huge hutch with ASCP. Bought a buffer for the drill and worked great or I never could have done it. Never knew you had to wait 24 hours to buff!! So it does work if you don't.

Anne said...

I just finished remodeling my ENTIRE kitchen using chalk paint! We updated the cabinets from old, dingy oak to a gorgeous antique white! Here are some pictures and plenty of tips we learned along the way: http://hammer-and-heels.com/2013/11/16/kitchen-cabinet-chalk-paint-makeover/

-Anne
www.hammer-and-heels.com

She K said...

I totally agree with you, we dont need to buy expensive label chalk paint at all. I mixed my paint and wax too. They are pretty easy to sand off too!

http://shekayshekay.wordpress.com/2013/11/21/first-furniture-makeover-vintage-blue-ageing-chalk-paint-dresser/

Please check it out! Thanks!

Lori Dobson said...

Premium Chalk Paint Mix!! Makes life so much easier! Not to mention the money saved by not buying AS! I have been using it for years an no one can tell the difference between the Premium Chalk Paint Mix and AS!! So easy to make!!

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/PREMIUM-CHALK-PAINT-MIX-/321259467188?pt=Paint_Paint_Supplies&hash=item4acc8e71b4

Vibrant Veggie said...

Lol!!! That was my faborite too. I love how you are so honest and hilarious! Definately going to follow your blog.

jeanne kelly said...

Finally, someone who admits AS wax is difficult and with shortcomings!! I have done a 5 piece dining set in French Linen, desk in Pure White and Paris Grey with chair to match, dresser in Pure White with Graphite top and matching night stand, small table in Aubusson Blue, and a few other pieces. Love the paint! Hate the wax. I found the dark colors the wax is streaky and blotchy. Not so much with lighter colors. The work involved with the wax, negates the ease of the paint. Just did a bed in Primer Red, clear and dark wax and once again streaky. I am very certain to wipe off the excess wax, so I don't think that is the problem. Just ordered VAX and a small jar of paint from Shabby Paints. Wondered if you could use the VAX over ASCP? I have a big investment in 4 cans of ASCP and want to use the paint with the VAX.

Nancy Olliver said...

Hi Adrienne, Have you heard about Poppies Famous Repurposing Paint Powder ? Its a quick healthy alternative to the toxic DIY plaster of paris option and gives me the freedom to make any color I want.

louisemoss said...

I really enjoyed your post. I have been making my own chalk paint for a couple years. I have never used name brands. I use poly over everything to seal it and LOVE how all my pieces turn out. I enjoy reading about others experiences with name brand paint and different sealing options. I havent tried way because I hav espent too many hours stripping 50, 60, 70 year old wax off of stuff, would never want to do that to someone in the future.

Sander And A Prayer said...

All I can say is thank God! I just mixed my own chalk paint and painted a piece of furniture. I've been stressing over the wax because I really didn't want to use it and was worried about buffing and so forth. After reading this I'm going for the poly. Thanks!!

margie willie pendergrast said...

Ok here is the deal I have a very very awesome kitchen table love the color and everything about it. But I was painting my finger nails and decided I didnt like the color so I got out the remover and dammmmm I dumped the bottle and it took away my dark stain off in a big area so im thinking just paint it. The chairs and the legs are great I only have to paint the top so im thinking something very wild like yellow or red or orange color for the top and leave the chairs and legs dark wood and redo my fabric cushions something bright also to match but im not wanting to sand and all that would this type paint work for this and can you get color added to it so its not white? Any suggestions would be great, im in an apartment so not room to sand and single mother so no money for new table. Thanks for your time!

Patsy said...

Thanks for all the information and your experiences with the various products. I just started using chalk paint so am not that experienced. However, I have terrible arthritis in my fingers so buffing with a cloth is out of the question. I grabbed brand new shoe brush that you would use to shine shoes, and brushed my pieces to a nice shine. Don't know if anyone else tried this, but it does a great job and not so hard on old, tired, achy hands.

Mel said...

I'm not a pro, I just do stuff around the house. I've tried making my own chalk paint with plaster of paris, but find it chips and scrapes easily. I am very clumsy and am always running into things or banging the vacuum into it, and the chalk paint just doesn't hold up.

I've had my best results with General Finish's Milk Paint. It's not a true milk paint, but is a water based acrylic. It goes on very smooth, and leaves a really hard finish that looks like the real thing. I've tried putting wax over it, but it's not worth the extra step because the finish is so good "as is".

I first used it about seven years ago on some kitchen chairs we got at the "naked" furniture store. It has lasted beautifully. I'm not so much a fan of distressed furniture-little nicks and stuff bug me, so I did get a fresh can and touched them up two or three years ago, but unless you're OCD like me, they really didn't need it. Last year I did the table base in Snow White, and even though we constantly prop our feet on it (as I'm doing right now!), the white is still pristine. It seems to repel marks. Chairs and table both get very heavy use.

It seems to be low odor-just a faint ammonia-y smell if you tend to hold your can under your nose in one hand and paint with the other, as I do. I have used it in my sunroom around my birds with no issues, and birds are notoriously sensitive.

I have also used it as legs on a desk that I did a chalk paint top on. The legs have held up beautifully, even with the chair bumping it all the time. Chalkpaint desktop, not so well. I will probably strip it and redo it in the GF milk paint.

Have also used it on an IKEA stained wood media center which I then decoupaged. It's held up great there, as well as a dresser and nightstand. I just used the Red Pepper on an old picked pine finished highboy, and am very pleased with how it turned out. The red has a lot of depth and is really pretty.

I do very little preparation, other than rubbing on a coat of DeGlosser on whatever I'm painting, and because it dries so quickly, I was able to put four coats on that highboy in a day, and it was back in use by that evening. I didn't bother to wax because the finish dried so hard. A little bit goes a long way. I used a pint of Red Pepper for those four coats, and it was a large highboy dresser. I had a generous amount left over.

You can also add water to it. Thinning it out seems to make the brush strokes very smooth.

Here is the link. They have nice colors, too.

http://generalfinishes.com/retail-products/water-base-milk-paints-glazes

I've bought mine at Rockler, Amazon, and was even able to special order some from a local paint shop.

The only qualification I would have is to tell you to paint quickly, and seal the can REALLY well when done, as some colors seem to go lumpy really quickly if left exposed to the air for a while. I just added water when that happened while painting. Open cans in storage seem to go bad relatively quick, though.

Deb T said...

I use one third cup p o P and one third
cup water to one cup of paint and let it set up a bit. I find that the coverage is phenomenal so I don't understand the issues with having to re-coat three and four times. I use a very fine sponge sander in between on small pieces I am doing and then use what ever top coat I chose or none, depending on what the piece is being used for. It could be the quality of the paint I use? I am not sure why I am not getting the same coverage issues as I hear others are having. The brush strokes I have been smoothing out with a damp small roller... first I wet it with water and make sure to "wring" it out as much as possible then it picks up extra paint as I go over the piece evening things out. I never use a foam roller, I use the little white polyester? rollers that people use for walls and trim.. I had some rustoleum furniture paint that I mixed with p of P and water, which gave AMAZING coverage, one coat would have done it but I opted for two after rolling. And I was covering a darker colour and decorative painting someone had done. I did so a little prep on it to get the brush strokes of the flowers off the door, besides that nothing special. I am now using that same paint to do a bureau ( veneered that has split) and I did not want to re-veneer the piece so I am having to do a little repair work where it lifted and once that is done, will send in pics of the finished piece. I picked it up on the curb and a woman fell in love with the piece but wanted it green, which is the colour of paint that I happened to have. ( I added some craft paint to it that was left over so its kind of a mixture of things) to achieve the colour that she wanted. I am charging her only 100.00 so I will not be hand buffing it but will just use a varnish or poly top coat. I also am using some decorative wood moulding I had picked up at the big box home improvement store and the original hardware. Hopefully it will come out great. Thanks for your honest post. I have not used Annie Sloan’s as I don't do this often enough to invest in speciality paints. I do own alot of antique pieces that I am redoing for my own use but I tend to like to restore to the original condition rather than paint over if the surface allows. I just bought a chifferobe which was totally foreign to me but my painting board is advising me against touching it. Its in excellent condition. I am going to use it for a craft storage center and the drop down desk part will hold my keyboard and mouse. Not large enough for my flat screen monitor, plus there are pigeon holes in the back of the desk so I am opting to wall mount it. my computer will sit in the base of the wardrobe as it has a false drawer under the part where the clothes would normally hang. I am going to put shelving in there as long as I can do it without destroying the integrity of the piece. My husband is an engineer and can think of incredible ways at times to do things without destroying them. Thanks for this site I have learned alot.

Laura said...

I bought a lifetime supply of calcium carbonate - a 5-pound jug - on Home Depot's website:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Irwin-5-lb-Standard-White-Chalk-65104/204469203?N=5yc1vZc24aZsm

for $10 with free shipping to the store. It is 99.9% calcium carbonate, with the rest being trace elements from the sea. Works beautifully using Dianne's recipe, mentioned above.

Chyenne said...

OK, I've been sitting at the computer for about two hours now researching painting outdoor fabric. I managed to find Annie Sloan painting a fabric chair. One thing led to another and I stumbled onto your blog. Imagine my surprise when I discovered you sell Chalk paint in your store which just happens to be in the town where I live! Nuts! Anyway.... in this post you are saying homemade is best. So my question is this: Will homemade chalk paint work on fabric?

Candice May said...

Thank you so very much for all of the info. Maybe someone can answer a question for me. I recently painted a small antique cabinet with chalk paint. I love the colour, but have seen pieces done with a small amount of black paint added to a glaze and it looks amazing! Can I glaze a piece directly on top of chalk paint or do I have to wax it first?

Juli Chavez said...

HELP!!! Anybody! I have an old dinning set that I don't want to get rid of because it is such a nice solid old piece. BUT, it's taken a beating through the years and I was thinking of painting it. Well, I was just gonna go get paint at the hardware store, when I started looking on line at colors and such and found ALL this talk about Chalk paints and waxes.What';s the best way to approach covering an old piece, it has TONS of detail and I was also going to do some stenciling on it. But now I'm confused as to what to use!! Chalk verses latex, verses prep, etc...Any advice would be SO appreciated!

kathryn said...

If you would like to toss in several moreo chalk paint/wax/glaze products, and I have absolutely no vested interest - no financial rewards - still learning myself...Vintage Market in ABQ NM. They have a website...just type in Vintage Market, ABQ NM. They make, sell and distribute their chalk paints and wax --- which is so safe, you can use it as a body cream! I have to push my pups back...they love it. Waxing is my biggest stumbling point. I'm still learning how to paint. I watch Salvage Dogs. The person who does their painting just "slaps it on" and the look is wonderful. FYI only. It's not nearly as pricey as AS. Kathryn from ABQ

Christine Freeman said...

I like wax finishes, but I don't like the fact that if you get any cleaning solutions other than vinegar on them, it removes the wax. Sprays like Windex makes splashes. I like polyacrylic because it doesn't yellow.
Use a thin layer of crackle, then polyacrylic on it. It'll crackle, clear. i.e. my version of craqueleur for pennies. Wax it with something dark and those gorgeous cracks show up as tiny elements of aging. Gorgeous.

I keep laughing at "honest" opinions. I've yet to meet someone who is dishonest about something as silly as paint. So... no.. lie to me.
But keep playing. Good information! Thanks.

Hopeful Me said...

I LOVE the feel of the soft paint coated in silky, rich lustered buffed wax. But I use Minwax paste wax. If I want to antique it I use a coat of Minwax, then quickly apply Briwax special dark, then over it again w minwax and wipe off. Wait a few then buff. If you let your wax sit in the sun or heat it til its almost liquid its super fast and easy and loverlyyyyy

Lisa @ Shine Your Light said...

Cindy, I so enjoyed reading every word of your experiences with chalk paint and waxes. I might be the only person left on God's green earth that has yet to invest in Annie Sloan and my experiences with wax have left me wanting. It's wonderful to read about the different products and what works for you, as well as everyone else - and you are right, there are many opinions out there. Thanks so much for sharing your honest opinions, I appreciate it so much!

Lisa Smith said...

What an interesting post. I've been an avid user of ASCP for some while. Not dared to make my own yet!!

Serah said...

This post reminds me of the diaper commercials... " I tried those expensive brands, but now I use Luves".;)
I appreciated your honesty! I agree so many opinions to muddle through. But I realize they are going to differ because of the climate we all live in is different. I forked out the big bucks for ASCP for a couple years but now I make my own. I only use acrylic craft paint mixed with the calcium carbonate. And like you said the people I paint for could care less about the brand of paint I use. They only care about the finished product and durability of the piece once they've paid money to have it painted.

Raina Saunders said...

Calcium carbonate? The main ingredient in antacids like Tums? So literally I could grind these up in a coffee grinder or food processor and paint away??? Has anyone else thought of this?

linda@creativeme said...

Thanks for the post... I have recently started doing my own chalk paint and it is awesome... Love your blog..

Laurie Woolworth said...

Great post. So much info... but I'm still confused. I made my own chalk paint out of Benjamin Moore satin latex and baking soda. It's dried. I've done a light sand to the paint and rough sand to the edges of the table causing the desired 'distress'.

Do I leave it be since I like the texture and it's latex? Do I polycrylic it? Do I wax it? (Heaven forbid! I hope you don't say wax... I am scared. It seems difficult and laborious.)

I would be extremely grateful for any advice. Thx!

Love your blog!

~ Laurie

Porte Ouverte said...

Am so glad I came upon your blog. I was looking for a tutorial on waxing, just painted a vanity with AS paint and it is streaked already without the wax. So glad to hear what I thought from the begining. I kind of got on the AS bandwagon and bought some paints. Expensive to say the least. As I have the wax I will use it for now. I did `cheat`last year and finished a piece with varathane and I like it`s finish. I don`t like the one month hardening period either. Anyway. Really glad i came across your post. And thanks for sharing your experience.

Sylvia

savethephotos said...

Hey there, great blog! And I found it last night and had to read over the period of a day, all the comments too! Lots of helpful info. I googled "I dont like waxing chalk paint" and found this, ha! Ive been using ASCP for a couple years. The first few items were fine, then I had one not come out as smooth with the wax. Then another few came out fine, but I began to dread the waxing process. Its time consuming, hard on my arm/shoulder area when Im done, and I also find the finish varies, it doesnt always look right, and I dont overuse it, I use same application all over but seems it still has a strange look to the finish at times. And then it sometimes just doesnt seem like its been buffed enough, and I buff and buff and re buff. Ive found some pieces are better if I let them sit and come back and check it in a month, its like all the wax is absorbed more evenly, but who can wait a month(noticed this on graphite particularly and I love using graphite with dark wax!) I got turned onto another product called Final Coat by a local gal, bought a bottle and you can just apply with a sponge, it dries in minutes, and it creates a protective coating, but once again there is no rule for how many coats, but I like that it dries so fast and all Im literally doing is just wiping a piece down and thats it, dont have to buff or shine. It looks almost like no finish is on it, I buy the low gloss formula. I just met another lady and she showed me the Miss Mustard Seed Wax and how to apply, I was in shock and said "THATS IT???" she literally just wiped it on, its soft like butter and spreads like butter, but you just wipe it on, no buffing and all that either. So I just picked some up, will see how I like that also. Im not interested in making my own chalk paint and have heard others say who make it there formulas werent durable, chipped easier, etc. So I know things can look great at first, but watch a piece with time and wear and see how it holds up. I dont have time to test and wait on my pieces. So Ill stick with ASCP but Im over the wax to be honest. So Ill mix and mingle some until something else new comes along and peeks my interest. I do love Annies paints though!

Robin said...

Thank you for this, I spend more time researching before I even pick up a brush. I appreciate your efforts documented!

Mrs.B said...

So glad to have found your blog. I painted two dressers with the ASCP and then waxed. That was two years ago, and the wax in some areas is still a bit tacky. I hate the stuff. I'm thinking of stripping the dressers and redoing. Any suggestions on stripping? Thanks so much.

Lanita Starks said...

I did the DIY chalk paint with plaster of Paris came out fine just have to mix good then pour in didn't have to sand in between either...if u use warmer water it is pudding like ,but yeah it took about 3-4 coats but a sample jar of Glidden or Behr for $3 and plaster for $7 got it did

christine anderson said...

This was such a great post! Thank you! I am a FAT Paint chalk user and i'm also trying Old Town Paints (can't comment, as they are in the mail). I'd like to also add, that i LOVE Briwax..i find it on Amazon for a good price. I use the Clear, Light Brown and Dark Brown. It goes on easily and i buff it out with 15-20 min of applying. The brown waxes add a really nice antique look and go on really well after you put on a thin coat of the clear. I think of the buffing as a workout for my shoulders and triceps...added bonus!! www.facebook.com/restyledbythesea

Chole S said...

Hello, I noticed that you use varathane spar urethane like a rub on poly. Do you dilute or do anything to urethane first? Also, in the picture I noticed that it was the outdoor water based varathane. Do you prefer it over interior? I know you have a ton of comments so thanks in advance for any light you can shed. :)

Janet said...

There are a lot of comments here, so I may have missed this, but...do I have to use wax and/or glaze after painting furniture with chalk paint? Can't I just paint the piece with chalk paint and be done with it? What would the result be if i did NOT use any wax or glaze?

Angel View Cottage said...

So I'm going to keep this simple. I've been painting for 30 years. Always used latex, always will. Not as much prep as people make it out to be. Too many people complicate things. Lightly sand, use one of the thousands of beautiful Ben Moore colors with paint/primer in one or not ( many pieces don't even require primer) no voc, eggshell finish for washability/durability and a quality Purdy brush. Paint, distress (or not) with medium grit, then go over whole piece with sander using fine grit to soften whole piece and get rid of brush strokes if you leave any (I usually don't but I've also been painting more of my life than not and certain things come with experience) Done. Yes, there is work involved but trust me chalk paint really is no easier or better than latex. It is all a matter of personal opinion and what works best for the individual artist. Oh and with latex, no waxing is required. I just like to use a good 'ol clear glaze if anything at all. As far as antiquing a piece, I like Valspar mocha water based glaze. Easy to apply and clean up. Happy painting everyone...no matter what you choose to use 😉

Angel View Cottage said...

So I'm going to keep this simple. I've been painting for 30 years. Always used latex, always will. Not as much prep as people make it out to be. Too many people complicate things. Lightly sand, use one of the thousands of beautiful Ben Moore colors with paint/primer in one or not ( many pieces don't even require primer) no voc, eggshell finish for washability/durability and a quality Purdy brush. Paint, distress (or not) with medium grit, then go over whole piece with sander using fine grit to soften whole piece and get rid of brush strokes if you leave any (I usually don't but I've also been painting more of my life than not and certain things come with experience) Done. Yes, there is work involved but trust me chalk paint really is no easier or better than latex. It is all a matter of personal opinion and what works best for the individual artist. Oh and with latex, no waxing is required. I just like to use a good 'ol clear glaze if anything at all. As far as antiquing a piece, I like Valspar mocha water based glaze. Easy to apply and clean up. Happy painting everyone...no matter what you choose to use 😉

MommaLuv said...

Love this post. I am not as experienced as you and many of the other bloggers (heck, I don't even have a blog-but just enjoy creating my own stuff from time to time). I have painted a few pieces for my home with the common latex/spray paints out there-which have turned out really well. But I have been wanting to try some of the chalk paints-just been afraid to do so without much knowledge of them. Your blog regarding this was just the education that I needed to get me started(with maybe some smaller projects first). Thanks a million!

Objectsdeart said...

This post is like a breath of fresh air! Thank you for sharing your hard work with us furniture painter with such graciousness!

Shenanigans Padunkadunk said...

This is a priceless post for those of us who have no idea what we're doing when we decide to update some old furniture in our homes. Thank you for taking the time to write something so pleasant, articulate and thorough. SO much appreciated!!

Connie said...

Hi Cindy, your post is just what I need the morning. I am working on my first chalk piece. Your are for informated. Thanks for sharing all your knowledge .

Melissa Jones Aldridge said...

This is a great post! Thank you for sharing! Learned a ton.

Unknown said...

Okay, I finally have the guts to ask. I LOVE following you, petticoat junktion and sawdustandembryos.

I haven't and don't plan on painting to resell furniture, I'm just doing it for myself and my friends/family. I've only done a few pieces and they usually suck, honestly.

Would anyone be willing to do a "refinishing furniture for dummies" synopsis for me? Give a general definition of each type of paint, how to use each one and what are the finishing options for each?

I know where to find all the tutorials on different painting styles, the different styles of distressing, etc. But I cannot find this info from a REPUTABLE source.

I would be ever so grateful, you have no idea!!!

Vivian Mahli said...

Great post. Had many of the same thoughts about waxing. Americana Decor Chalky Finish Paints and Soft Varnish top coat works like a breeze. Cheaper and more readily available (Michael's and Pat Catan's) than the boutique brands. I haven't tried my own DIY recipe yet but will soon.

megankalu said...

Thank you Cindy for your blog on chalk paints because i'm going to make my own with your recipe, but i'm still unclear (believe it or not) what do you use for a sealer after you paint. So you don't use wax? What are the coatings again? And to make it look distressed you have to use a dark wax, so what is the substitute for that? I'm sorry, i'm having a bad retention day.
Margote

Rhonda Vaudt said...

I totally agree with you, I tried homemade chalk (I was kicking & screaming the whole time!) because it was the "thing" to do now. Honestly though, I have been painting, distressing, and antiquing furniture for years, and with great results. So I will stick to my old ways, if it ain't broke don't fix it! Waxing & buffing for me, was a royal pain! And your right about it being a cost factor, I try to keep my costs down for my customers, and even though I made my own chalk paint the time involved isn't worth it.

Joseph Cox said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
Joseph Cox said...

A really interesting article thanks! What I would say though is that I have tried this reasonably new chalk paint by Autentico which seems to be reasonable in price but also I can get better results than with the other products that I have tried. I don't know if you have had the chance to use it? If not then it is definitely worth a try.

Judith Bareham said...

LOVED this article and lots of helpful, honest info.
I have been using AS Paris Grey but have found same issue with waxing.
Also a piece I finished a year ago and waxed I have found has grease stains from dishes ( it's our sideboard in dining room).
I was disappointed as I assumed the wax would prevent such issues.
So now I don't know whether to repaint, relax or what.
I definitely am gun-shy about waxing pieces but do like the protection factor wax is supposed to give.
Want to try milk paint - lots of pieces popping up in that finish. Better supposedly to chalk....not sure

thanks again

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The complete blogs are really inconceivable and definitely everyone will share this information.
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BigSmiles said...

Thank you all for the great suggestions. I am new to painting furniture.

My QUESTION IS:

How long do I need to let the furniture sit without using after finishing.

AS wax says 30 days. I can't wait 30 days. If I use poly or other types mentioned here, is the curing time shorter?

Megan Brown said...

Hey, great post!

I am sorry you have so many problems with the wax. The first time I used wax, I had no problems. I was using Fiddes Supreme Wax in clear. I searched the web and found this article: http://whitecottageboutique.com/how-to-wax-and-buff-furniture/

I followed part of the directions, by brushing on the wax and leaving it until the next day, but then instead of steel wool (I couldn't seem to find my stash) I used a pair of panty hose. It worked great.

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Bonnie Minton said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
Bonnie Minton said...

Love your blog. You mentioned using spar urethane like a wipe on poly. Do you dilute with mineral spirits to do this?

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Nancy said...

Great post using chalk paint.
shabby chic

Rlee said...

I tried using the Martha Stewart chalk paint...which seemed to work fine until I tried to glaze this piece of furniture. As I was painting the glaze on I noticed it took some paint off, then when I went to wipe the excess glaze off...it took all the paint off! What did I do wrong???

Jil Walters said...

Excellent website you have here but I was wanting to know if you knew of any user discussion forums that cover the same topics discussed in this article? I’d really love to be a part of group where I can get responses from other experienced individuals that share the same interest. If you have any suggestions, please let me know.Thanks a lot!
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Aloys said...

I've also used waterbased Spar Varthane (found at my Menards) with ... menardsblack.blogspot.com

NorthBrook Painter said...

Great ideas! You can also check out for ideas in our Parkridge Painter painting questions and answers page.

Courtney R said...

Hi Cindy,
Great post. I've been struggling with what to do with my project. I painted a kitchen table with ASCP and used the clear wax and now have a streaky, cloudy, waxy, sticky table. What do you recommend I do? Sand and use some other sort of seal? What is safe for a kitchen table? I'd appreciate your expertise and feedback!

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Brian Mikesell said...

Quick Q:
If you had to pick from Chalk Paint or Benjamin Moore Advance for kitchen cabinets - what would you choose. Great website!

Thanks,
Brian and Teresa

King Daigo said...

I want to chalk paint 2 side tables and a coffee table that are bare oak. The kids at my school made them in shop so they are just naked wood. I am thinking the Chalk paint would be perfect for this but my question is this… do I need to prep them in any way? and….
After I chalk paint can I paint a design on the top of it.?

Kathy said...

Question- when the VAX is applied with the sponge is there any marks or brush type strokes at all when dry? is it a flawless finish?

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Kathy Mullins said...

Like you, I've wrestled with the 'wax demon' but as for chalk paint...well, you HAVE to try Farmhouse Paint. It's not per say a 'chalk paint' but on the same theory - no prep no prime. But the difference with this paint and other chalk paints (Annie Sloan, American Paint Co to name a few that I've actually used) is that Farmhouse Paint is NO TOPCOAT REQUIRED. Yup. And it's not chalky when left not top coated! I have used wax and I have used poly acrylic but I have also not used anything and it has done really well. (I will admit that I am a sucker for that 'silky feel' so I do LIGHTLY sand before and after. And by lightly sanding I mean I use my actual hand with a 320 or higher sandpaper, not a sander!) I absolutely LOVE this Farmhouse Paint (though it's actually called FURNITURE COATING in retail stores and online. Give it a try...I have a feeling that you'll be glad you did!

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Elton Baer said...

The above post is too good. Learning how to wax furniture requires only a few simple tools and a little time.Very excellent post along with assisting information regarding furniture wax. It's of vital importance to the society. Good luck for next. I would like to visit again.

Linda Rice said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
Linda Rice said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
Linda Rice said...

Newbie girl again, forgot I am using Annie Sloan clear wax for just sealing.

Linda Rice said...

I'm new to chalk painting, if anyone has any ideas on my first time, I'm open to any help/ideas. Mixing my own chalk paint with, latex paint, plaster of paris and water(country white). My first project will be a dark wood nightstand with a varnished top.Thank you😃

Peggy Barr said...

Thank you for your wisdom. I am loving chaulk painting and enjoying my newly painted works of art. Kitchen cabinets are my new adventure as of late.years ago I painted my brown varnished kitchen cabinets with white oil based paint. They have held up wonderfully for about 10 years now. Looking a little yellowed though so I went to Sherwin Williams today ( 05/23/16) with one of my small cabinet doors and had paint mixed to match the yellowed white paint. I am going to only repaint the doors and touch up a few places that need it. I am using the NEW paint this time that is suppose to dry as hard as oil base BUT with soap and water clean up. Hoping it works as good as they all say it does. Nothing will ever last the way the old oil based paints do in my opinion, but the mess from cleaning the brushes with mineral spirits and waiting 24 hours to dry is horrible!

Peggy Barr said...

B M Advance. I am fighting this very question my self. But I am using Sherwin Williams Furniture coat paint myself . Just bought it today. It is suppose to go over oil based paint and dry as hard as shellac.

Peggy Barr said...

Polycrylic

jabsudsdrt said...

one of my small cabinet doors and had paint mixed to match the yellowed white paint. I am going to only repaint with Best Paint Sprayer to the doors and touch up a few places that need it. I am using the NEW paint this time that is suppose to dry as hard as oil base BUT with soap and water clean up. Hoping it works as good as they all say it does.

jabsudsdrt said...

This is so great article that i can't resist myself from commenting. sprayertalk is following you.

Laura said...

Thank you for helping me realize I'm not crazy!!! I decided to try AS chalk paint because so many people raved about how easy it was and how the paint all just blends together (no brush marks); ummmm -- after several days of working on the dressers, the paint looks splotchy, definitely not smooth, and I've been feeling like I'm just a failure and nothing works right for me, I watched applicatio videos and I did all my research - I even ask the store I purchase the paint from for their advice because I wanted my pieces to turn out perfect. So, now I'm super disappointed -- I spent quite a bit on the paint and supplies (over $100), so I'm pretty frustrated with all the talk about how easy chalk paint is. So thank you for helping me see I'm not alone in this struggle. I dk if I'll ever use chalk paint again.

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